This is my own twist on a classic knitting pattern. I looked up hats in this pattern and none where what I was looking for. I wanted something that was entirely made of this pattern even as you decrease the number of stitches as you go up and loose the stitch number that you need to form the stitch.
I used an angora/ cotton blend and the smallest double ended needle set I have (size 12 UK, 2 US). I prefer circular needles so if I were to do it again I would just use that instead of the double ended needles which tend to get annoying the less stitches you have.
This pattern needs serious blocking so if you want to use a bigger needle I think casting on 140 stitches is good but for my size 2 needle I cast on 154 stitches. You need a multiple of 14, if you want to be accurate do one round and check the quage but my suggestion is 154 stitches ( 14 st X 11 rounds) for a small needle and 140 (14 st X 10 rounds) for a larger needle and you can guess how many rounds of 14 stitches you want to cast for a baby or for larger heads. I would say these measurements are good for older kids, teenagers and small sized head.
Use markers when you start the pattern, this will help you keep up with the number of stitches for each round and avoid any mistakes.
A small size hat made of an Angora/ Cotton blend, using small sized stitches
What you need
- Size 2 US (12 UK) double ended needles or circular needles. (If you want to use regular needles just replace all the even number rows with a purl stitch instead of a knit stitch and saw it when you finish the work.)
- Angora/ Cotton blend yarn.
Method
Cast on 154 st (14 st X 11 cycles) (or a multiple of 14 stitches)
Edging: *k1, p1*
repeat between * till end of work. Repeat for 9 rows
The Scallop Lace Pattern
Row 1: *k1, ssk, k9, k2tog* (14 st become 12)
Row 2 (and all wrong side): k
Row 3: *k1, ssk, k7, k2tog* (12 st --> 10)
Row 5: *k1, ssk, yo, (k1, yo) x 5, k2tog* (10 --> 14)
Row 6: *k1*
Repeat rows 1-6 four times
The Decrease: Now we will start the decrease
Round 1: 154 (14 x 11) --> 132 (12 x 11)
Row 1: *k1, ssk, k9, k2tog* (14 --> 12)
Row 2: *k*
Row 3: *k1, ssk, k7, k2tog* (12 --> 10)
Row 4: *k*
Row 5: *k1, ssk, (k1, yo) x 4, k1, k2tog* (10 --> 12)
Row 6: *k*
Round 2: 132 --> 132
Row 1: *k1, ssk, k7, k2tog* (12 --> 10)
Row 2: *k*
Row 3: *k*
Row 4: *k1, ssk, (k1, yo) x 4, k1, k2tog* (10 --> 12)
Row 5: *k*
Round 3: 132 --> 110
Row 1: *k1, ssk, k7, k2tog* (12 --> 10)
Row 2: *k1, ssk, k5, k2tog* (10 --> 8)
Row 3: *k*
Row 4: *k1, ssk, yo, (k1, yo) x 3, k2tog* (8 --> 10)
Row 5: *k*
Round 4: 110 --> 110
Row 1: *k1, ssk, k5, k2tog* (10 --> 8)
Row 2: *k*
Row 3: *k*
Row 4: *k1, ssk, yo, (k1, yo) x 3, k2tog* (8 --> 10)
Row 5: *k*
Round 5: 110 --> 66
Row 1: *k1, ssk, k5, k2tog* (10 --> 8)
Row 2: *k1, ssk, k3, k2tog* (8 --> 6)
Row 3: *k*
Row 4: *k1, ssk, yo, k1, yo, k2tog* (6 --> 6)
Row 5: *k*
Round 6: 66 --> 66
Row 1: *k*
Row 2: *k*
Row 3: *k1, ssk, yo, k1, yo, k2tog* (6 --> 6)
Row 5: *k*
Round 7: 66 --> cast off
Row 1: *k1, ssk, k1, k2tog* (6 --> 4)
Row 2: *k*
Row 3: *k*
Row 4: *k1, sl, k2tog, psso* (4 --> 2)
Row 5: *k*
Row 6: *k*
Row 7: *k2tog*
Row 8: *k*
Cut thread and pass through remaining stitches and close work
This is how it looks like without blocking it.
Abbreviations:
k: Knit
k2tog: knit two stitches together
ssk: slip the first stitch as if to knit, slip the second stitch as if to knit, then slide the left-hand needle into the front part of both stitches and knit them together
sl1: slip on stitch as if to knit
sl1, k2tog, psso: slip one stitch,
knit the next two stitches together, then pass the slipped stitch over the stitch you just made by knitting two together. When you slip a stitch before a psso, it should be slipped purlwise, meaning from back to front as if you were making a purl stitch, unless otherwise noted in the pattern
